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August 10, 2012 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Eggplant Parmigiano Exposed

While eggplant has never been one of my favorite vegetables, I’ve been eating so much of it in Southern Italy that it’s really grown on me.  My current favorite is eggplant parmigiano, especially the way my friend, Concetta, makes it.

Concetta & her husband Sabato

There is an ongoing discussion in Campania about the correct way to make eggplant parmigiano and like any good food discussion in Italy, it frequently becomes to heated you expect at any moment it will come to blows, dissolving into a real food fight.  While Concetta’s mother makes it one way, her mother-in-law makes it another, and that is a difficult position to be in!  The two older women are from neighboring towns prompting me to think “Can’t we all just get along?!”

The biggest bone of contention appears to be just how the eggplant should be prepared before assembling.  One side says to dip the slices in beaten eggs and then dredge with flour or breadcrumbs, while the opposing camp believes just frying them naked is best.  I think breadcrumbs are too heavy and naked is too light and prefer to dip them in egg and then dredge them with a little flour.  As you wish.

Salting is also apparently an option.  If you are using the big, spongy eggplants, you’ll want to slice them and then salt them well.  Put them in a colander in the sink with a heavy weight on top for at least 5 hours if not overnight.  Once they’ve given up their water, you’ll want to rinse the salt off and dry them on paper towels.  Then you can continue with the frying stage.

The point of salting the eggplant is this:  an eggplant is made up of tiny cells or chambers, like a sponge.  When you salt it, the chambers collapse, releasing water; thus the chambers are prevented from filling again with oil when frying.

Some cooks in Campania say that you don’t need to salt the long, skinny and firm variety, like in the picture above.  Just slice them thin and proceed with the frying stage.

Of course, a third option is to blanch the slices in boiling, salted water.  While this may be a healthier alternative, boiling anything is never as delicious as frying it.  Buon Appetito e grazie Concetta!

Eggplant Parmigiano

15-25 slices of eggplant

Peanut oil for frying

3 eggs, beaten

2 cups flour

Simple tomato sauce

Fresh basil leaves

1-2 lbs whole milk mozzarella, sliced

Heat the peanut oil until 350 degrees, dip each slice into the beaten eggs and then dredge in flour and fry each slice until golden brown.  Drain on paper towels.  Prepare a large baking dish with a drizzle of olive oil and a light coating of tomato sauce.  Place a layer of fried eggplant in the pan, pressing down well.  Add a light coat of tomato sauce, some whole basil leaves and a layer of mozzarella.  Continue to layer in this way, making sure that you consistently press the eggplant slices firmly into the pan.  In this way, once it’s baked you will be able to slice it and it will maintain its shape.

Top the last layer with sauce then bake it at 400” until bubbling.  Allow it to sit 10 minutes before serving.

Southern Italian tomato sauce

1 small onion, chopped finely

2 garlic cloves, minced

32 oz tomato puree or crushed tomatoes, preferably San Marzano

Sea salt

ground pepper

Sauté onion and garlic in a good quality extra virgin olive oil until soft.  Add crushed or pureed San Marzano tomatoes.  Cook 20 minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper.

 

Filed Under: Campania, seasonal vegetables Tagged With: Campania cuisine, eggpla, eggplant, eggplant pamigiano

January 25, 2012 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Faella, Pasta of my childhood

When I was young and we went to visit my paternal grandparents in Brooklyn, I would go with my Grandma to make her shopping rounds in the neighborhood. She stopped at the bakery to get the Italian braided bread topped with sesame seeds and at the butcher to get the right cut of meat for the braciole; then we’d go to the deli to pick up locally made Italian salami and mozzarella as well as dry goods brought over from Italy. I remember the package of pasta that she always chose: white paper encasing long spaghetti, simple blue and red letters and a clear plastic window so you could see what kind of pasta you were getting. It wasn’t a brand my mother bought and I’ve never seen it in a store since that time.

Until two years ago when I was walking through Naples, and in the window of a little alimentari, a small shop serving the needs of a typical Napolitano neighborhood, I saw a big display that looked so familiar I stopped dead in my tracks. FAELLA, the white packaging with blue and red letters said, and I recognized it immediately as my grandmother’s favorite pasta. Someone, somewhere, was still making the pasta I ate when I was a kid. I had to find them.

I talked to my friend SabatoAbagnale, the head of Sorrento’s Slow Food chapter. Yes, he said, he knew Faella well, it being one of the original artisan pastas from the nearby town of Gragnano (see a previous blog for more on this pasta town). So Sabato and I made an appointment to visit Faella’s production facility, where they still had in use some of the original machines from the early 1900’s.

 

We met Mario Faella, the 95 year old son of the original owner, who still came down to the factory every day to oversee operations—not because they needed him, he said, but because he enjoyed being there among the action. He’s a legend, charming and polite. Mario kindly took me on a tour, showing me how they made and dried spaghetti and it felt like coming home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I wanted to tell him what drew me to his factory, why Faella pasta meant something to me and how happy I was to come to Naples and still see the same brand my grandmother used 50 years ago in New York. So I said, “My grandmother was originally from Montella (a town in the mountains an hour away) but she moved to America, and when I was growing up I remember she always used Faella pasta. I didn’t know it was still around, I only just saw it in a store last week in Naples.”

Mario looked me clearly in the eye, his finger pointing to the heavens, and he started his story: “There was a young man, who was the son of our manager, Domenico Letterese was his name, but he didn’t like working in the factory, he didn’t want to study. And my father said to him ‘Domenico, if you don’t want to study you have to take our pasta to America!’ This was before the war. So Domenico took our pasta on the boat in big trunks and sold it to a man who had a store in Brooklyn, and for years we sold our pasta to that one store in Brooklyn!”

“That’s where my grandmother bought it!” I said excitedly. “She lived in Brooklyn! My grandmother bought your pasta from that store!”

All those years, four degrees of separation between me and this charming old man whom I’d never met before, making delicious pasta at his family’s factory in a small town on the coast of Sorrento for my family to enjoy a taste of the old country in Brooklyn.

And now you can once again get Faella pasta on the shores on America, through www.gustiamo.com. Tell them Gina’s grandma sent you!

Buon Appetito! Gina

Filed Under: Campania, Pasta Tagged With: faella, gragnano, pasta

January 12, 2012 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Artisan Pasta from Gragnano

One of the most frequent comments I get after teaching a group to make fresh pasta is, “Fresh pasta is so wonderful, I’ll never eat that hard, boxed pasta again!” But fresh pasta, made with soft flour and eggs, is only one note in the symphony of Italian cuisine. Pastasciutta, the dried pasta from southern Italy, made with semolina and water, plays an important part at the Italian table and is in no way second fiddle to pasta from the north.

It seems every year I’m drawn to the pasta factories of the south. I yearn to be in Campania, breathing the sea air in the shadow of Vesuvius. Last summer, on a visit to Naples, I went once again to Gragnano, the pasta town on the bay of Naples. I’ve long been interested in making pasta and studying its history, so when Slow Food friends on the Sorrento coast offered to take me on a tour of some of the artisan pasta factories in the area, I jumped at the chance.

Gragnano, along with neighboring town Torre Annuziata, has been a pasta-making center since the late 1800’s and was designed with pasta in mind. On the banks of a river lined with mills for grinding durum wheat into semolina flour, the main street lies perpendicular to the Sorrento coast to take advantage of the constant sea breezes that were used to dry the strands of pasta. There are many old photos from the early 20th century showing racks and racks of long spaghetti lining the streets and balconies, drying in the open air.

It’s a more hygienic operation these days with the pasta being made and dried indoors.

 

 

 

 

 

But the most fascinating thing I saw was the pasta made by hand, like this woman making fusilli rolled by hand on a long metal spoke. Truly beautiful to watch, I have to go back with a video camera!

 

 

 

 

Buon Appetito!

Gina

 

Filed Under: Campania, Pasta Tagged With: gragnano, naples, pasta, pastasciutta

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