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March 9, 2012 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Making Salami in Winter

Italians eat with the seasons. That’s about the only way you can generalize Italian food, except maybe to say that their food is always fresh and simply prepared.Which is a direct result of eating what’s in season.What is seasonal generally is taken to mean local fresh fruit and vegetables, harvesting what’s growing in the gardens and ripening on the trees and bushes.But in the past, the winter season was pig-slaughter and salami-making time, fresh roasted meat was only available during the cold months, and eating with the season was more than just vegetables and fruit.

December, January and February was traditionally the time of year when Italians butchered their pigs to make salami, prosciutto, sausages, and other cured products because only then was it cold enough outside and in the slaughter house to butcher the meat safely, ensuring that it wouldn’t spoil or rot before they could get it cured.While today the butchering and curing goes on inside climate-controlled environments all year long, you do still find small operations and individual households that stick to the tradition of only butchering and curing meats in the wintertime.And if you only butchered animals in cold weather, that usually meant that for the mostly poor and agriculturally based population, fresh roasted meats were a wintertime delicacy.

I have several friends in Italy who always buy a pig in September and spend the winter fattening it up with table scraps and corn.Then after the first of the year, they schedule a weekend of sausage and salami making.The pig is killed on Thursday night, they pick it up on Friday and three days of cutting, seasoning and hanging meat begins, culminating with a big Sunday lunch of fresh grilled ribs and roasted pork loin. Friends pitch in and bring desserts and antipasti or fresh tagliatelle. A big fire is started early and by the time lunch comes it’s burned down to a nice bed of coals for grilling pig liver wrapped in caul fat, pork steaks and ribs.


Filed Under: Blog Categories Tagged With: salami, sausage making

August 27, 2011 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Antipasto Platters are Perfect for Summer Entertaining

One of my favorite ways to eat is to just nosh on lots of little things, and both Spanish tapas and Italian antipasti platters are perfect for this, in fact they have a lot in common. When it’s this hot and you don’t want a heavy meal or to spend a lot of time cooking, but you want to have all your friends over for drinks and dinner, putting together a large assortment of antipasti is one of the easiest ways to entertain. A couple of good cured meats like salami, prosciutto or mortadella, some sliced provolone, chunks of parmigiano and some pickled vegetables like giardiniera or pepperoncini are perfect for putting together various little mouthfuls.

A note on getting good Italian cured meats in the US: good luck! There are only three kinds of Italian DOP cured meats that legally can be brought into the states: Prosciutto di San Daniele, Prosciutto di Parma and Mortadella di Bologna (the frontrunner and granddad of bologna/baloney, minus the fat chunks, and the reason it’s called that). While it’s possible to find some good pancetta, coppacola or salami, they will be domestic products.

 

 

prosciutto di parma


Whatever you get, it’s important that the cured meat has been stored and treated properly in order to ensure a decent product. Beware of paying a lot of money for one of the imported meats that has been stored in a cold refrigerator with constant circulating air; it dries the meat out and makes it stiff and crumbly instead of soft and tender. Ask to sample a slice before buying. The other abomination that I often see in the US is cutting all the fat off of prosciutto before slicing it and then charging $25 a pound. The fat is an important part of the whole taste experience, balancing the saltiness of the meat with the sweetness of the fat. If you want to take it off at home, so be it, but you should be given the choice. That fat isn’t there by accident or laziness on the part of the prosciutto maker!

 

 

fried sweet peppers with mozzarellini

 

In addition to putting out some coldcuts and cheese, I like to go the next step and make some quick dishes that make the whole experience more interesting and filling. They don’t take long to make and can round out the antipasti into an entire meal. Most importantly they all go great with a glass or two of wine! These are dishes that are common to both Italian antipasti bars as well as Spanish tapas bars. (our use of the word “bar” is so limiting in the US!)

 

Some of my favorites include baby octopus or squid stewed in a spicy tomato sauce; fried sweet peppers with tomatoes and small mozzarella balls; ceci or cannellini beans with diced tomato and garlic; shrimp in a garlic and parsley sauce; small fried sardines or smelts. All of these are wonderful served on little plates with a slice of hearty bread ready to catch the juices and wipe the plate.

baby octopus in a spicy tomato sauce

Some other vegetables that are lovely with cold cuts and cheese are roasted peppers and grilled zucchini or eggplant with olive oil. Called sott’olio there is a wide variety of vegetables that can be roasted or grilled, either in the oven or over coals, and then covered with olive oil, garlic slices and parsley. It keeps for several weeks in the fridge and is ready whenever you need to put it out.

roasted pepper spread with toasted crostini

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fried Summer Peppers with Tomatoes & Mozzarella

1 lb sweet Italian peppers, tops broken off

1 pint cherry tomatoes

2 garlic cloves, minced

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt

Small mozzarella balls

Heat a large sauté pan with olive oil and fry the peppers until they are cooked all around and browned, tossing and stirring. Remove them to a bowl, wipe out the sauté pan with a paper towel, add a little more olive oil and the garlic and sauté gently before adding the tomatoes. Cook until softened and toss together with salt and the peppers. Serve as an antipasto with the freshest, best mozzarella you can find.

Moscardine con Sugo Arrabiata (Tiny octopus with spicy tomato sauce)

500 gr small octopus or squid

3 garlic cloves

olive oil

hot peppers, one or two

2 cup crushed tomatoes

parsley

white wine

Sauté the garlic in the olive oil gently, add the hot peppers and parsley and cook a few minutes, then add the octopus or squid and sauté until cooked. Add the wine, allow it to cook off and then add the tomato and simmer for 30 minutes, salting to taste. Serve with bread as an antipasto.

Buon Appetito! Gina

 

Filed Under: Blog Categories Tagged With: antipasti platters, antipasto, cold cuts, prosciutto, salami, tapas

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