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January 21, 2023 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Warming Winter soups

Here are a few ideas for warming winter soups to keep up your strength during the cold, dark winter months!  Whether bean-based or vegetables pureed and deepened with cream, these soups are a welcome meal by the fireside. The mushroom soups have the additional benefit of being a strengthener for your immune system!  If you don’t have a fireplace, light a bunch of candles against the dark and enjoy!

Zuppa di Carota e Finnocchio (carrot fennel soup)

1 lb carrots, cleaned and chopped

1 lb fresh fennel, chopped

1 onion, chopped

olive oil

3 tbsp butter

3 cups chicken or vegetable broth, or water

Sea salt

white pepper

Sauté onion in olive oil until soft.  Add butter, carrots, and fennel and continue to cook over a medium heat, stirring until the vegetables begin to soften.  Cover with broth or water and continue to cook until the veggies are very soft, at least 30 minutes, adding a small amount of water or broth as it cooks off.   Salt while it’s cooking.   Remove from heat and puree with an immersion blender until smooth.  The consistency should be thick, you may add additional broth if you want it thinner.  Before serving, reheat and stir in a light grinding of white pepper.  Top with chopped fennel fronds and croutons.

Zuppa di Funghi  (wild mushroom soup)

1 lb mixed wild mushrooms (chanterelles, blue foot, shitake, black trumpet)

1/2 cup dried porcini, soaked

1 medium onion, small chop

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teas fresh rosemary, minced

2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped

3 tbsp butter

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

salt & pepper

1 cup white wine

1/2 cup cream

Clean and chop the mushrooms into medium pieces.  Saute the onion, garlic and parsley in the butter and olive oil until soft, add the mushrooms, the rosemary and the porcini, saving the water the porcini soaked in.  When the mushrooms begin to soften and are well sauteed,  salt and pepper to taste and add the white wine.  Allow the wine to cook off, then add the saved porcini water and enough water to cover.  Simmer at least 30 minutes and briefly puree with an immersion blender, keeping some mushroom pieces for texture.  Add cream and serve. May be topped with croutons.

Zuppa di Zucca Gialla (winter squash soup)

1 butternut squash

1 medium onion, chopped

4 tbsp butter and olive oil, combined

broth* or water

½-1cup cream

nutmeg

salt

white pepper

Cut the squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds.  Place it cut-side down in a roasting pan with a small amount of water.   Roast the squash in a 400 degree oven until soft, remove from the oven, and when the squash has cooled enough to handle, scoop out the meat and discard the skin.   Sauté the onions in the butter and oil until softened, add the squash meat and sauté 5-10 minutes.  Add broth or water to cover the squash, salt, nutmeg and a dash of white pepper and simmer on low at least 20 minutes.

Puree the mixture with an immersion blender and add additional water if too thick.  Reheat and finish the soup with the cream, salt to taste.  Top the soup with croutons and a good drizzle of new extra virgin olive oil.  You can jazz it up and make it more elegant by sauteing porcini mushrooms and topping a crostino, floating that on the soup.

Making broth

*The best broth is the one you make at home with a little chicken, turkey bones or just vegetables: carrots, celery, onion, parsley and peppercorns, simmered an hour.  It’s healthy and easy!  But if you must buy a canned or boxed broth, be sure to dilute it as they’re very concentrated and can overwhelm the delicate taste of the squash.

Croutons:

One loaf of french or italian country loaf, something dense, with crusts cut off, extra virgin olive oil and salt.  Cube the bread into 1″ pieces, place on a sheet pan, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and bake at 400 until golden brown.

 

Filed Under: soups, winter Tagged With: carrot fennel soup, mushroom soup, squash soup, wild mushrooms, winter soups

February 20, 2020 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Super Tuscan wines

Super Tuscan wines are an unofficial category of high-quality, pricey wines that began to emerge in the 1970’s.  A term invented to describe Tuscan wines that previously could only be classified as vino da tavola, or table wine, they were considered innovative and fresh. These wines first emerged around Bolgheri, on the western coast of Tuscany.   Instead of indigenous Tuscan varietals, international grapes, such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc, were used.  In addition, they were aged in smaller French barrels, or barriques.  This gave them aging potential, but also made them more expensive.

Today, almost every producer in Tuscany makes a wine that can be classified as a super Tuscan.  Many producers still use the classic international varietals, but just as many are making excellent wines with traditional, indigenous grapes.  America is the key market for these wines, both because of industry marketing efforts as well as flavor profile.

On February 25th and March 31st, At the Italian Table will host a dinner showcasing three Super Tuscan wines, two from the Chianti Classico region and one from Bolgheri.  It’s an excellent opportunity to try a new wine classification or get to know this important wine better!

                     Tuscan pecorino flan w/ roasted pear & shallot served with

                                                Il Fauno Super Tuscan 2015

         Raviolo al uovo – porcini raviolo w/ egg yolk in truffle butter served with

                                         Poggio al Tesoro Bogheri Il Seggio 2015

             Peposo – beef braised in sangiovese & black pepper served with

                                                      Arcanum 2006

              Torta della Nonna – Tuscan cream cake w/ pine nuts served with

                                            Moscadello di Montalcino dessert wine

                                                 $95 per person

Go to Open Table to make a reservation or give us a call! 502-883-0211

Filed Under: Tuscany, Wine, winter Tagged With: super tuscan, super tuscan wines, Tuscany

December 21, 2015 by Gina Stipo 2 Comments

Feast of the Seven Fishes

feast of seven fishesThe holiday celebration of the Feast of the Seven Fishes is considered by many non-Italians to be the quintessential Italian Christmas Eve festivity, but in fact it’s much more of an Italian-American tradition. The custom of having no meat comes from the Catholic church’s restrictions on eating meat during advent, and with the abundance of fisherman and fish from the coastal regions of the peninsula, the last day of advent being Christmas Eve, the tradition took hold of eating an elaborate fish dinner before meat returned to the table on Christmas Day. anchovies clams IMG_4815

 

Since a great majority of immigrants in the 19th and 20th centuries came from the coastal cities of Naples and Palermo, the custom of eating fish morphed into a feast of many courses of fish and seafood and entered the Italian American vernacular as the Feast of the Seven Fishes, the accepted way to celebrate the holiday in Italian style.

In my family, where my grandparents came from mountainous areas of southern regions (Potenza in Basilicata and Avellino in Campania), we celebrated with cheese ravioli in tomato sauce followed by a large baked fish and finished with platters of fried pastries.  Christmas Eve to me meant my grandma’s fried struffoli drizzled with honey and fried chestnut and cocoa ravioli drenched in powdered sugar.  Outside grandma’s house, my family has always celebrated with a huge platter of spaghettini tossed with seafood: rock shrimp, lobster or shrimp, roasted in garlic and herbs – all accompanied by copious amounts of wine!
This year in my new osteria in Louisville, At the Italian Table, we will be celebrating the Feast of the Seven Fishes in the days leading up to and following Christmas.  Tiny fried shrimp and calamari, scallop shells baked with seafood, bread crumbs and herbs, drizzled with great Sicilian olive oil; mussels steamed in white wine and tomato, served on toasted bruschetta doused in the new Tuscan olive oil; baked snapper or branzino, drizzled with lemon and orange olive oil from Sorrento – a full evening of delicious southern Italian fish dishes and crisp wines to complement them.
Here’s my recipe for  Calamari Arabbiata – squid simmered in tomato and hot peppers – delicious served with bruschetta! Buon Appetito and Buon Natale a tutti!!

Calamari o Polpo con Sugo Arabbiata (squid or baby octopus in spicy tomato sauce)

2 lbs squid, cleaned and sliced into rings and tentacles; or baby octopusimg_1012

3 garlic cloves

olive oil

hot peppers flakes to taste

2 cups crushed tomato

1/4 cup fresh parsley, minced

1/2 cup white wine

Sauté the garlic in the olive oil gently, add the hot peppers and half the parsley and cook a few minutes, being careful not to brown the garlic.  Add the squid or baby octopus and sauté until coated with the garlic and parsley.  Add the wine, allow it to cook off and then add the tomato and simmer for 30 minutes, salting to taste.  Sprinkle the remainder of the parsley over the dish and serve with bruschetta.

Bruschetta: toast slices of heavy country loaves (the best in the US is Tuscan Pane from Trader Joe’s) until golden brown, gently drag a single clove of garlic over the toast and drench in great extra virgin olive oil.

 

Filed Under: Blog Categories, Campania, Sagre e Feste, Sicily, winter Tagged With: braised octopus, christmas foods, feast of seven fishes, italian christmas, seafood, squid in tomato

October 23, 2015 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Winter Squash in all its Golden Glory

winter squashI think winter squashes are glorious.  They come in beautiful sleek packages and when you cut them open they are a glorious golden orange – alive and shining!  And we have so many varieties now:  butternut, acorn, spaghetti, delicata, Hubbard, pumpkin – both jack-o-lantern and pie – and some intriguing ones I don’t know the names of.  Lots of pumpkins are sold in October to make into Jack-o-Lanterns, but they are delicious on the table as well.

Lia Gina and The PumpkinIn Italy they grow winter squash and the relatively new pumpkin as big as possible and then sell them at the market by the slice, allowing you to buy just how much you think you need.  This certainly eliminates waste and encourages use.  But I’ve noticed that here in the US they cultivate smaller sizes – people don’t want to purchase more than they’ll eat.

My all-time favorite squash is the Hubbard because there’s so much meat and it’s so versatile:  you can make delicious soups and stuffed pastas, but it’s also great just roasted and pureed.roasted hubbard squash

delicataMy new favorite this year is delicata!  Elongated and striped, it’s a beautiful little squash, just right for one or two people.  I cut them in half long-wise and roast them in the oven cut side down with a little water and olive oil in the bottom of the pan.  When they’re soft, scoop the meat out and dress it with sea salt, butter or olive oil, and a good grating of nutmeg.  What more could you want on a chilly fall evening!

pumpkin pureeA really luscious stuffed pasta is the traditional Tortelli di Zucca of northern Italy.  Made with roasted and pureed squash, nutmeg, salt and parmigiano, it’s perfect in a simple butter sage sauce.  Once you’ve pureed the pumpkin just be sure to wrap it in a cloth and squeeze all the water out; otherwise your stuffing is too wet and will destroy its pasta wrapping.

Enjoy the bounty of the fall season and Buon Appetito!

Ravioli di Zucca Gialla con Burro Salvia (winter squash ravioli w/ sage butter)
2 cups butternut or acorn squashravioli di zucca
3/4 cup Parmigiano cheese, grated
1 egg
½ teas ground nutmeg
½ teas sea salt
pepper
bread crumbs, finely ground
Bake the squash in a 350° oven until soft. Let cool, scoop it out and mash it with a fork in a bowl until smooth. Place the pulp in a cheesecloth or linen towel, twist the ends together and squeeze as much water out as possible. Add remaining ingredients, mixing well;add bread crumbs if the mixture is still wet. It’s important that the filling not be wet or the ravioli will be more difficult to handle. Cook the ravioli for 2 minutes in boiling water that has been well salted.

Burro Salvia
1 stick unsalted butter
10 sage leaves
½ teas sea salt
Melt the butter in a sauté pan while the ravioli are cooking, add the sage leaves and salt. When the ravioli are cooked, scoop them out and place them in the sauté pan, stirring gently to coat. Serve with a generous garnish of grated Parmigiano cheese and be sure to eat the sage leaves.

Filed Under: Blog Categories, seasonal vegetables, winter Tagged With: butternut, delicata, hubbard, pumpkin, winter squash

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