Winter in Italy closes in on you.  The valley where I lived for 13 years is well known for its fog – la maledetta nebbia – that rolls in off the flat farmland and socks in my little town, a cluster of medieval buildings nestled against the Montagnola hills.  It came early in the morning and finally burned off about an hour before the sun set, then returned the next day.  I always wanted to fortify myself against it, and frequently turned to the kitchen to cook up something warm and comforting.

Braised dishes are best for arming yourself against winter weather.  A big pot of beef roast or pork shoulder simmering in red wine on the stove top is an excellent companion in the kitchen on a cold winter day.  Thick stews of lamb or beef that are accented with sage, rosemary and juniper, served over rich polenta and washed down with a deep sangiovese wine, are your compatriots in arms against the worst winter can throw at you.

One of my favorite winter braises utilizes the toughest and cheapest part of the cow, the rump or shoulder, a muscle that gets a lot of exercise and so is full of collagen and tough muscle fiber.  Both spezzatino,  “little pieces”, and stracotto – “long cooked” – use the liquid of red wine and a long, slow fire to break all that down and turn the meat into luscious, tender and flavorful stews and hearty meals.

To accompany the spezzatino or stracotto, make a polenta and at the end of cooking, beat in butter and grated parmigiano.  Slice the meat and serve it on top of the soft polenta accompanied by a rich red wine like Barolo or Chianti Classico.

While spezzatino is made with small pieces of meat, stracotto is made with larger pieces that are then sliced or shredded to serve.

Spezzatino di Manzo (Tuscan beef stew)
This is a hearty and filling winter dish and is best served over polenta. It can also be made with lamb.
2 lbs cubed meat, salted
1 medium onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
3 tbsp tomato paste
3 cups red wine
½ cup or more olive oil
2 rosemary sprigs
2 bay leaves
4 sage leaves
2 tbsp parsley, chopped
1 cup crushed tomatoes
salt & pepper to taste
Sauté the meat in a large pot in olive oil until browned, remove the meat and set aside. Add the carrot, celery, onion and garlic to the pan and sauté in olive oil over medium heat until soft but not browned, add the tomato paste and herbs and continue to cook another 5 minutes. Return meat to pan and deglaze with red wine. Cook five minutes, add tomatoes, sea salt and pepper and allow to cook over low heat 2 hours, covered. Stir occasionally, being careful not to allow the bottom to stick or burn, adding a little water if necessary. Serve over polenta.