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October 23, 2015 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Winter Squash in all its Golden Glory

winter squashI think winter squashes are glorious.  They come in beautiful sleek packages and when you cut them open they are a glorious golden orange – alive and shining!  And we have so many varieties now:  butternut, acorn, spaghetti, delicata, Hubbard, pumpkin – both jack-o-lantern and pie – and some intriguing ones I don’t know the names of.  Lots of pumpkins are sold in October to make into Jack-o-Lanterns, but they are delicious on the table as well.

Lia Gina and The PumpkinIn Italy they grow winter squash and the relatively new pumpkin as big as possible and then sell them at the market by the slice, allowing you to buy just how much you think you need.  This certainly eliminates waste and encourages use.  But I’ve noticed that here in the US they cultivate smaller sizes – people don’t want to purchase more than they’ll eat.

My all-time favorite squash is the Hubbard because there’s so much meat and it’s so versatile:  you can make delicious soups and stuffed pastas, but it’s also great just roasted and pureed.roasted hubbard squash

delicataMy new favorite this year is delicata!  Elongated and striped, it’s a beautiful little squash, just right for one or two people.  I cut them in half long-wise and roast them in the oven cut side down with a little water and olive oil in the bottom of the pan.  When they’re soft, scoop the meat out and dress it with sea salt, butter or olive oil, and a good grating of nutmeg.  What more could you want on a chilly fall evening!

pumpkin pureeA really luscious stuffed pasta is the traditional Tortelli di Zucca of northern Italy.  Made with roasted and pureed squash, nutmeg, salt and parmigiano, it’s perfect in a simple butter sage sauce.  Once you’ve pureed the pumpkin just be sure to wrap it in a cloth and squeeze all the water out; otherwise your stuffing is too wet and will destroy its pasta wrapping.

Enjoy the bounty of the fall season and Buon Appetito!

Ravioli di Zucca Gialla con Burro Salvia (winter squash ravioli w/ sage butter)
2 cups butternut or acorn squashravioli di zucca
3/4 cup Parmigiano cheese, grated
1 egg
½ teas ground nutmeg
½ teas sea salt
pepper
bread crumbs, finely ground
Bake the squash in a 350° oven until soft. Let cool, scoop it out and mash it with a fork in a bowl until smooth. Place the pulp in a cheesecloth or linen towel, twist the ends together and squeeze as much water out as possible. Add remaining ingredients, mixing well;add bread crumbs if the mixture is still wet. It’s important that the filling not be wet or the ravioli will be more difficult to handle. Cook the ravioli for 2 minutes in boiling water that has been well salted.

Burro Salvia
1 stick unsalted butter
10 sage leaves
½ teas sea salt
Melt the butter in a sauté pan while the ravioli are cooking, add the sage leaves and salt. When the ravioli are cooked, scoop them out and place them in the sauté pan, stirring gently to coat. Serve with a generous garnish of grated Parmigiano cheese and be sure to eat the sage leaves.

Filed Under: Blog Categories, seasonal vegetables, winter Tagged With: butternut, delicata, hubbard, pumpkin, winter squash

October 9, 2015 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

…and jumping straight back into summer!

eggplant parmigianaThe reason autumn is my 3rd favorite season is that it gives you a little taste of lovely cooler weather, and then snaps you back into the beautiful heat of summertime!  Which is exactly what happened here in Louisville this past week.  I love that.

I’m confused about the produce cycle in the US.  So often when I’m looking for a seasonal vegetable or fruit, none are to be found.  There is the constant cycle of everything all the time.  Piles of apples and oranges in June when there should be mountains of apricots and cherries.  In August, at what should have been the height of its productivity, I was desperate for an eggplant.  One large grocery store had none; another smaller market had exactly 3 soft ones at $3.99/lb.  I was so disgusted I posted it on Facebook.

Now it’s October and eggplants are two for a dollar.  That’s 50 cents a piece.  Go figure.slender eggplants

So I bought them and in honor of my 2nd favorite season, Indian Summer, I’m putting eggplant parmigiana on the menu all weekend!  It’s a bit labor intensive but is so worth the effort and really the ingredients are simple.  Just a matter of putting them all together. The recipe is below.

simple red saucemozzarella

I would serve it with the last of the rose’ wine.  Buon appetito!

Parmigiana di Melanzane (eggplant parmigiana)fried eggplants

4 eggplants, peeled and sliced thin
Peanut oil for frying
Simple tomato sauce (olive oil, whole garlic, tomato puree, salt)
Fresh basil leaves
1-2 lbs whole milk mozzarella, sliced
2 cups pecorino romano, grated

Slice the eggplants thinly, lengthwise and salt them in layers, leaving them for several hours to release their water.  Rinse them and pat dry with paper.
Heat the peanut oil until 350 degrees and fry each slice until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Prepare a large baking dish with a drizzle of olive oil and a light coating of tomato sauce. Place a layer of fried eggplant in the pan, pressing down firmly. Add a light coat of tomato sauce, some whole basil leaves and a layer of mozzarella and a sprinkle of cheese. Continue to layer in this way, making sure that you consistently press the eggplant slices firmly into the pan. In this way, once it’s baked you will be able to slice it and it will maintain its shape.  Bake at 375 til bubbling.  Serve with a salad.

Filed Under: Blog Categories, Campania, Puglia, seasonal vegetables Tagged With: eggplant, eggplant parmigiana, mozzarella, naples, summer dishes

October 7, 2015 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Moving into Autumn

porcini e squashIndian Summer is my favorite time of year.  Hot, clear and sunny days remind us of the summer that has passed and gives us one more chance to warm our bones in the sun before winter hits and envelops us in its cold, dry arms.

But it reminds us that cold weather is coming in earnest and holiday fun is soon to be enjoyed!  For me, the cooler fall weather brings a most welcome change to the Italian Table with roasted meats, braised dishes and stews, warming soups and hearty pastas.wild boar on polenta

I love this time of year!  The deeply flavored and long-cooked dishes I left behind in the spring when the weather lightened and warmed have been missed, and I welcome them back to my stove!

winter greensThis season’s vegetables are visible in the farmers markets and stores:  winter greens like kale and chard, pumpkins and winter squash, nuts and mushrooms all herald the harvest and the autumn.   In Italy the grapes have been pressed into the fermentation tanks and they look to the olive trees to determine when harvest for the oil will begin.  Chestnuts are falling in the woods and if the rain has cooperated, mushrooms and truffles are available too.  October means deer season, with wild boar hunting not far behind.

bruschetta e fireIn Tuscany, this time of year means we relight the big fireplaces and use them to grill sausages and bruschetta to be served with cannellini beans cooked with rosemary and sage and new olive oil drizzled over all.  Hearty braised stews with wild game and wild juniper are paired with rich polenta for a filling and satisfying meal.sausage e fire

Some of my favorite dishes to cook are rich ragus of beef, pork and wild game serve with wide papparadelle, or rich pastas stuffed with mushrooms and cheese or butternut squash and nutmeg and served with a butter sage sauce.

Enjoy this return to the enveloping flavors of the Italian Table!

Filed Under: Blog Categories, seasonal vegetables, Tuscany, winter Tagged With: at the italian table, braised meats, wild game, winter dining

August 26, 2015 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

Making Tomato Sauce in Campania

sabato e concetta It’s late August and that means my friends Sabato and Concetta are busy canning their amazing tomatoes, Il Miracolo di San Gennaro, down in the valley between Mt Vesuvius and the Lattari Mountains, just east of Naples.  I can’t help but think of them and the fun times I’ve had helping to can tomatoes in their backyard, which in August is turned into a production facility.picking through tomatoes

In southern Italy in the summer, everything is done outdoors.  And a tomato canning operation is no exception!  Sabato’s equipment has gotten bigger and better over the years and the boiler for sterilizing the jars has been moved to the cantina downstairs.  But the main operation of picking through the tomatoes, boiling them and milling them into rivers of sauce and then putting it in jars is still done outside.tomato saucecooking tomatoes

milling tomatoescanning tomatoesFriends and family get together to help, which is great because it’s a 6 a.m. to midnight operation.canning tomatoestomato saucemiracolo di San GennaroOf course, we’re in Italy so there are healthy stops for lunch and a rest around 1 pm and then again around 7:30.  Coffee is brought from the bar next door, crates of tomatoes are ever arriving from the fields.

tomatoes

ciao tutti!It’s a joyous time and I wish I was there with them helping this year!

Filed Under: Campania, seasonal vegetables Tagged With: canning tomatoes, il miracolo di san gennaro, slow food, terra slow, tomato sauce, tomatoes

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